Friday, June 24, 2011

Highlights from Milan S/S 2012

Milan was once again the epicenter of menswear fashion thanks to designers and fashion houses who showed several days ago their collections and ideas for Spring/Summer 2012. This has been one of the best editions in recent years due to the impeccable designs, use of color, varied styles & trends, creativity, and elegance on most of the collections. The aesthetics from 60s and 70s menswear were still present on the runway, yet color blocking made a huge impact as well, not forgetting the presence of new textures, patterns, and combinations.

Zegna was among the first to show its propossals for S/S 2012. A show that isn't only remembered for the classic elegance of its two-button and double breasted jackets in beige, tan, sand, brown, and blue tones; but also for its soundtrack which consisted of songs from the 1969 Italian film "Metti Una Sera a Cena" performed by Ennio Morricone & Florinda Bolkan.

Canali once again delivered an impressive collection, one of my personal favorites. It started with classic Italian linen suits and double breasted jackets, and then transitioned into white tunic shirts, Safari jackets, Hindu inspired shirts and multicolored jackets with eye catching patterns. It was like witnessing the evolution of menswear during the 60s on the runway.

Corneliani had an original jacket with light beige borders, as shown below. Bottega Veneta was inspired by Safari jacket shirts from the early 70s worn by the likes of Yves Saint Laurent. Band of Outsiders featured a "UV" black skinny tie and leather jacket ensemble inspired on musicians like Bob Dylan. Emporio Armani showed what appears to be an original washed linen jacket with matching pants and t-shirt. Moschino paired some t-shirts with formal suits and unique belts.

Umit Benan was one of the most acclaimed designers in Milan with his own collection (shown above) and the collection he designed for Trussardi. Benan's collection was made up of pieces that immediately reminded of the 80s with window pane checks, the use of bright colors such as yellow, and rolled up white jackets like Duran Duran. On the other hand, for Trussardi Benan kept using very bright colors on Safari jackets, double breasted jackets, and striped pants which were an upcoming trend in Milan this season.

Z Zegna confirmed that belted Safari jackets and double breasted jackets were perhaps the most featured items on the Milanese runways. The white suit with blue bordering seems like something Don Johnson would have worn on Miami Vice.

Gucci never disappoints, this time their collection was made up mostly of checkered jackets and suits, original pullovers, and leather bombers. Their dinner jackets were in my opinion their best pieces because of their sophisticated and original designs and patterns.

Ferragamo continued like in past seasons offering a collection that is a must for any well dressed man. Double breasted jackets were still their staple, available in different colors and lengths. Worth remembering are the straw hats worn by some of the models during the show.

Cavalli announced hours before their show via their mood board that their collection was inspired on Gunter Sachs & St. Tropez in the 70s. Indeed it was, but I may add that it also seemed to be inspired on Jim Morrison with those python embellished suede pants, and London's Carnaby Street with their striped pants. Worth noticing are Cavalli's python and leather moccasins.

Dolce & Gabbana was all about "fish nets" over shirts, jumpsuits, and even a suit. Classic ensembles as a black skinny tie suit were present, and original white shirts too.

Calvin Kelin Collection added the futuristic touch to Milan with their metallic/Space Age pieces.


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